Chart.



PATENTED APR. 18, 1905.

No. 787,533.v

W. MGDOWELL.

CHART APPLICATION FILED MAY 1. 1903 RIENBWED 00T 12, 1904.

- 2 SHEETS-SHEET l,

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i 8 E f1 E ff@ /4 2,1 l 2/2 n l lo m jNdonm- 6 l @Y l l l r 1 l Tf K @Erm \'Q WITNESSES: INVENTOR W. mcowf UNITED STATES Patented April 18, 1905.

WILLIAM MCDOWELL, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

CHART.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 787,533, dated April 18, 1905.

Application filed May 1,1903. Renewed October 12,1904. Serial No. 228,131.

Womens Shirt-WVaists; and I do hereby de-.

clare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

My invention relates to certain improvements in charts for drafting womens shirtwaists, and has for its object to provide a very simple chart of this description readily manipulated and easy to understand; and with these ends in View my invention consists in certain details of construction and combination ofl parts, such as will be hereinafter fully set forth and then specifically be designated by the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, Figures 1 and 2 are elevations showing, respectively, the front and back sections of my improved chart.

Similar numbers of reference denote like parts in both figures of the drawings.

The front section is used in drafting that part of the shirt-waist between the vertical middle front and the shoulder, under arm, and hip, while the back section is used for drafting that portion of the waist between the shoulder, under arm, and hip and the vertical middle back, so that it will be clear that the two sections together are to be used for the purpose of drafting one half of a shirt-waist, the other half, of course, being out out from the patterns already obtained, or the cloth may be doubled, and after the patterns have been drafted from the two sections the whole waist is readily cut out. y

Referring to Fig. 1, the forward edge is composed of a lower end strip 1, a top end strip 2, and an intermediate strip 3, which strips are provided, respectively, with elongated slots 4 5 6. The lower end of the intermediate strip carries a pin 7, which projects within the slot 4., and the upper end of the strip 1 carries a set-screw 8, which pro- 'pattern of the waist.

while they are xed in any desired adjusted position by means of the set-screws 8 10. This method of providing extensible and contractible strips or elements in order to obtain Yproper lengths or adjustments is old and well known, and since the various connections between the adjustable elements throughout my improvement are precisely as is illustrated and as has been heretofore described with respect to the strips 1 2 3 I will not hereinafter specifically explain or refer to such connectionsexcept by the general term sliding connection or sliding connections.

Still referring to Fig. 1, 11 12 are the side or under-arm strips, having a sliding connection, and 13 14C are the bust-strips, also having a sliding connection, the outer end of the strip 13 being secured to the strip 3, while the outer endrof the Strip 14 is pivoted to the upper end of the strip 11. 15 16 are the front shoulder-A strips, having a sliding connection, the free end of the strip 15 having pivoted thereto and depending therefrom a curved strip 17, which has a sliding connection with an upwardlyextending curved strip 18, secured to the upper end of the strip 2, these strips 17 18 being capable `of adjustments todetermine the front neck-pattern of the waist. Pivoted to the free enol` of the strip 16 and depending therefrom is a curved strip 19, which has a sliding connection with a curved strip 20, that extends -upwardly and is pivoted to the strip 14.. These strips 19 2O are capable of adjustment to determine the front armhole- 21 22 are the waiststrips, which have a sliding connection and whose outer extremities are respectively pivoted to the strip l and the lower portion of the strip 12. 23 is the front over-hip strip, whose upper end is pivoted to the lower eX- tremity of the strip 12, and 24 25 are strips provided with a sliding connection and having their extremities respectively pivoted to the lower end of the strip 1 and the lower end of the strip 23.

From the foregoing it will be readily understood that the length of the front along the center line is determined by the adjustment of the strips 1 2 3. rlhe length of the front shoulder is determined by the adjustment of the strips 15 16, and the slope of this front shoulder, as well as the front neck and front armhole patterns, are determined by the sliding adjustments between the strips 15 16, the strips 17 18, and the strips 19 20, it being also true that the vertical adjustments of the strip 2 may contribute toward the proper pattern for the front neck, while likewise the sliding adjustments of the strips 13 14 or the elevation or depression of the same may contribute toward the proper shaping of the front armhole. The bust dimensions are determined by the sliding adjustments of the strips 13 14, and the proper location of any required fullness for the bust is brought about by the elevation or depression of these strips. The distance between the front armhole and front hip is of course determined by the adjustment of the strips 11 12, while the fullness of the petticoat is obtained by the adjustments of the strips 23 24 25.

Referring to Fig. 2, which represents the back section of my improved chart, the back edge comprises a lower end strip 26, a top end strip 27, land an intermediate strip 28, which have sliding connections with each other, so as to be capable of extension or contraction. 29 is the back neck-strip, which is secured at one end to the top strip 27 and is curved upwardly, and 30 31 are the back shoulder-strips, which have a sliding connection with each other, the strip 3() having an additional sliding connection with the strip 29. 32 33 34 are the back armhole-strips, which are suitably curved, and 35 36 are the back width-strips, which have a sliding connection 1 with each other, the free end of the strip 36 being secured to the strip 28, while the free and of the strip 35 is secured to the strip 33. The Lipper end of the strip 33 is provided with forks 37, and the strip 32 is pivoted near its lower end to the extremity of the strip 35 and is provided beyond its pivotal point with a V-shaped projection 38, which extends between said forks, so that it will be clear that the strip 32 may have a pivotal play limited by the abutment of said. projection against said forks. The strip 31 has a sliding connection with the strip 32 lengthwise of the latter, while the strips 33 34 have sliding connections with each other. 39 40 are side strips, which have a sliding connection with each other and which determine the length between the bottom of the armhole and the hip waistline, and 41 42 are strips which determine the fullness at the bust-line and which have a sliding connection with each other, the free end of the strip 41 being secured to the up per end of the strip 39, while the strip 42 is secured to a vertical strip 43, the upper end of which latter is secured to the strip 35. The .lower extremity of the strip 34 has a sliding connection with the strip 41 lengthwise of the latter. 44 45 are the waist-line strips, which have a sliding' connection with each other, the extremity of the strip 44 being pivoted to the strip 26, while the lower portion of the strip 40 has a sliding connection with the strip 45 lengthwise of the latter. 46 is the back overhip strip, whose upper end is pivoted to the lower extremity of the strip 40, and 47 48 are strips provided with a sliding connection, the i free end of the strip 47 being pivoted to the lower extremityof the strip 26, while the lower end of the strip 46 has a sliding connection with the strip 48 lengthwise of the latter.

From the foregoing it will be readily understood that the length of the back and lo cation of neck and waist line are determined by the adjustmentol" the strips 26 27 28. The length of the back shoulder are determined by the adjustment of the strips 3() 31, and the slope of the back shoulder, as well as the back neck and back armhole patterns, are determined by the sliding adjustments between the strips 29, 30, 31, and 32, it being also true that the vertical adjustment ofthe strip 27 may contribute toward the proper sloping of this back shoulder, while, likewise, the sliding adjustments of the strips 35 36 or the elevation or depression of the same may con tribute towardthe proper shaping of the back armhole. The fullness for the bust dimensions is determined by the sliding adjustments of the strip 41, which latter may be moved independent of the strips 34 and 42, and the proper location of any required fullness of the bust is brought about by the adjustments of the strips 27, 28, 33, 34, and 39 40. The distance between the back armhole and the back hip is of course determined by the adjustment of the strips 39 40, while the fullness of the petticoat is obtained by the adjustments of the strips 46, 47, and 48.

The lateral strips of the back section of the chart at the waist-line and hip-line-namely, strips 44 and 47 have their outer sections 45 and 48 wider than the other strips of the chart, and these sections are preferably formed with more than one longitudinal slot. By this means one slot-vas, for instance, the lower slot 4facilitates the lengthening of each of the said strips 44 and 47, while the other slot affords an adjustable connection with the side strips 40 and 46.

Having thus fully described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. A waist-chart, comprising front and side adjustable strips and shoulder, bust, waist and IOO IIO

hip strips connecting the same, all of said connecting-strips being provided with portions capable of adjustment.

2. A Waist-chart, comprising center and side strips, shoulder, waist and hip strips pivotally connected at their ends with the said center and side strips, a bust-strip fixed to the center strip and pivoted to the side strip 'i and 'adjusting means interposed in all of said connecting-strips.

3. A Waist-chart, comprising center and side strips having adjustable means interposed in their length, neck and armhole strips provided with adjustable connections, bust, Waist and hip connecting-strips joining the center and side strips, a shoulder connecting-strip joining the neck and armhole strips and sliding adjustable means interposed in the length of all of said connecting-strips.

4. waist-chart, comprising center and side strips, a neck-strip, armhole-strips and adjustable strips connecting the center strip with the armhole-strip and shoulder, waist and hip strips adjustably connecting the center and side strips. l

5. A waist-chart, comprising center and side strips, Waist-strips and hip-strips connecting center and side strips said Waist and hip strips having an intermediate adjustable means and an adjustable 4means at their ends and adjustable means connecting the armstrips with the center strips.

6. A waist-chart, comprising front and back portions the back portion having center and side strips, armhole-strips, a horizontal back strip connecting the center strip with the central portion of the arm-strip, a section of the armhole-strip being pivoted at adjacent ends to said horizontal connecting-strip and a shoulder connecting-strip.

7. A waist-chart, comprising front and back portions the back portion having center and side strips and an armhole-strip the said arm hole-strip being made up of upper and lower sections, a horizontal connectlng-strip extending from the center strip to the arm-strip adjacent ends of the upper and lower armholesections being pivoted upon said connectingstrip, and intermeshing means interposed between the adjacent ends of the armhole-sections for limiting their adjustment with-respect to each other.

8. A waist-chart, comprising center and side strips, an armhole-strip formed in two sections, the lower section being adjustably connected to the upper end of the upper side strip, a shoulder-strip adjustably connected with the upper armhole-section, a lateral connecting-strip supporting the adjacent ends of the armhole-strips and strips at right angles to each other for connecting the said lateral connecting strip with the upper side strip.

9. A Waist-chart, comprising front and back sections the back section having center and side strips, a horizontal strip projecting from the upper end of the side strip, an armholestrip rising from said horizontal strip, a connecting strip extending from the armholestrip to the center back strip, a vertical bracing-strip interposed between the horizontal stripand the armhole connecting-stripV and shoulder, waist and hip strips.

l0. A waist -chart, comprising front and back sections the back section having center and side strips, an armhole-strip, a connecting-strip extending from the armhole-strip to the center strip, a vertical strip depending from ysaid connecting-strip, a horizontal strip extending from the upper end of the side strip toward the center strip and adjustable means interposed between the same and the strip depending from the connecting-strip and shoulder, waist and hip strips.

In testimony whereofI affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

WILLlAM MODOWELL. Witnesses:

ELMER L. KNoWLEs, JAY LEIsER. 

